1. Download the GPX file: Save the GPX file to your smartphone. This could be from an email, a website, or another app.

2. Open the GPX file: Locate the downloaded file on your phone and tap on it.

3. Choose the Wahoo app: When prompted to choose an app to open the file with, select the "ELEMNT" or "Wahoo" app.

4. Confirm import: The Wahoo app should ask if you want to import the file. Tap "Yes" or "Import".

5. Sync with your Wahoo device:

   • Ensure your Wahoo device is turned on and paired with the Wahoo ELEMNT app on your phone via Bluetooth.

   • In the Wahoo app, go to the "Plan" tab, then "My Routes".

   • You should see the imported route in the list.

   • Select the route and tap "Send to ELEMNT".

   • The route will then sync to your Wahoo device.

Alternatively, you can import through the Wahoo app directly:

1. Open the Wahoo ELEMNT app on your smartphone.

2. Go to the "Plan" tab.

3. Tap the "+" (Add) button.

4. Select "Import a file".

5. Browse your phone's files and select the GPX file.

6. The route will be imported into your "My Routes" list and will then sync to your Wahoo device.

Once the GPX file is imported and synced, you can find the route in the "Maps" or "Routes" section of your Wahoo device and select it for navigation.

1. Save the GPX file: Open the email on your phone and save the attached GPX file to your phone's storage (e.g., in your Downloads folder or a cloud storage service accessible by your phone).

2. Open the Garmin Connect app: Launch the Garmin Connect app on your smartphone and ensure your Edge is paired with the app.

3. Import the GPX file:

   • On Android: Open the GPX file on your phone. You should see an option to "Open with" or a similar prompt. Select the Garmin Connect app.

   • On iOS: Tap the share icon (usually a square with an arrow pointing upwards) after opening the GPX file. Look for the Garmin Connect app icon in the share options and tap it. If you don't see it directly, you might need to scroll or look for a "Copy to Connect" option.

4. Follow the prompts: The Garmin Connect app will guide you through the import process. You'll likely be asked to choose a course type (e.g., cycling).

5. Name the course: You'll have the option to rename the imported course. Keep in mind that the Edge device might only display the first 15 characters of the name.

6. Save the course: Once you've named it, save the course in the Garmin Connect app.

7. Send to your device: In the Garmin Connect app, navigate to your saved courses and select the one you just imported. Tap the option to "Send to Device" and choose your Edge device.

8. Sync your Edge device: Ensure your Edge device is turned on and within Bluetooth range of your phone. The course should sync to your device. You can then find it under Navigation > Courses > Saved Courses on your Edge device.

This method is generally the most convenient as it doesn't require connecting your Garmin to a computer with a USB cable.

Zwift

Effective November 2023, we now use Zwift’s club feature to host virtual group rides, so you should join the Rosemount Cycling Club. If you need some help, Zwift has a page about joining a Club, check out their Clubs FAQ, or contact us.

After you’ve joined our club, you’ll find that members can receive push notifications about our club’s events, register for events, share events with others, and join our Discord with a tap, all via the Companion app. Shortly before an event starts, jump on Zwift and, join the event when the game prompts you to do so.

Discord

To talk to each other during the ride, and make it more fun, use the free Discord service. Discord is a real-time communications platform built for gaming. You may use a phone, tablet, or PC to connect to Discord, then connect a headset or headphone with a microphone to that device to communicate with us when you join the voice channel.

The first-time setup is fairly easy and it can and should be done well before the ride.

1. Install the Discord app on a phone, tablet, or PC.

2. Create your account.

3. Add Rosemount Cycling Club’s server: JVPkUjG.

4. Go to our #about-and-rules text channel and read the discussion rules.

5. During the ride, connect a headset or headphone with a microphone to the device running Discord.

6. Start the Discord app and join the club’s General voice channel.

7. Talk to other riders, and have fun.

8. After the ride, hang up via the icon with the old-school handset and x.

Feel free to post messages to our #general-discussion and #sharing channels. We hope to see you at our next virtual ride.

So, I put my lenses into a padded envelope, with a check for $24.95, and took it to the post office. For less than $5 in postage, I shipped my beat up lenses to California. Ten days later, I received a new set of Racing Red lenses. They came in another padded envelope, which had a small box for the spare lenses. Inside the box was a cloth pouch that had the new lenses. I'll use the pouch whenever I need to carrying a spare set of lenses on a ride. I sometimes bring a second set of lenses when a ride starts out in sunny conditions and ends in darkness.

My experience with RLP was great. It couldn’t have been easier, and the minimal cost is a nice bonus.

Since I’m talking about lenses, I thought I’d share that I’ve found that yellow lenses work better than clear lenses, when riding my fat bike in the snow, especially at night. The yellow lenses help add shadows that can get lost in the snow with clear lenses. On sunny days, darker lenses work better to cut the glare from the snow.

On our rides, everyone’s safety is a primary concern and knowing how to safely ride in a group is key. We all know a few riders who we prefer not to follow, because they are not steady and unpredictable. Are you someone that others try to avoid? To help you improve, GCN has a short video on how to properly hold the wheel of the rider in front of you, and a related video about how to ride in a paceline.

Getting Started

Getting started was pretty easy. All I needed was the trainer that I already own, a speed sensor that supports ANT+ or Bluetooth, and a laptop. I didn’t have a speed sensor, so I bought the Wahoo RPM Cycling Speed and Cadence Sensor combo. They are small and light and can communicate via ANT+ and Bluetooth, so I can pair them via Bluetooth to the Zwift Companion app and via ANT+ with my Garmin 510 when I ride outdoors.

While I waited for the speed sensor to arrive, I created an account at Zwift.com and downloaded the apps to my laptop and phone. On Android, there’s a Zwift Companion app that works as another screen and controller for the game app that runs on your laptop. Both apps are pretty easy to use, but they are not as polished as many of the apps I use, like Strava.

Initial Impressions

I’ve ridden with Zwift six times over the last three weeks and here are my initial impressions about the experience, including the software and the game.

During the onboarding process, I picked a CycleOps trainer model that was similar to mine, but not the same model, and that made the first ride too easy. Before the next ride, I switched to the “other” trainer and that made the performance more realistic, if a bit too challenging. A better trainer would likely give me more consistent output (wattage), and a smart trainer would make the experience even more real, because the trainer would adjust itself to the game.

Pairing my sensors was pretty easy. I’m using the Zwift Companion app and Bluetooth to get readings from the sensors. It can take a minute or two to get them to pair again before each ride. That’s a little annoying, but it gives you a chance to spin easy before starting your ride. I may get an ANT+ USB adapter and USB extension cable to see if that works better. I’ve read that the batteries in the sensors will last a little longer when they communicate via ANT+.

The game lets you join scheduled events, do a training ride, or you can simply “freelance" and ride however you like. The scheduled events are available at various times throughout the day. For my first ride, Zwift suggested “ZWIFT 101: CYCLING - Training Zones” activity, which showed me the various parts of the user interface and provided a good introduction to how the game works. I also rode an intervals session. Although, the majority of my rides have been unstructured.

On Thanksgiving morning, I signed up to join a group ride that was starting 15 minutes later. I started riding and expected the game to bring me into the event when the ride was scheduled to begin, or at least remind me to join the event, but that didn’t happen and I missed the ride. This is one example of how the user experience could be improved.

I like being able to ride with other virtual people, because it motivates me to ride that little bit harder than I would if I were alone. So far, my rides with Zwift haven’t been any longer than riding without it, but they have been harder and more engaging.

One-Month Update

It’s been a little more than a month since I joined Zwift, so I thought I’d share some updates about my experiences with the game. I’ve made it to level 9 while riding 344 miles over 19 hours. I’ve been enjoying the game so I added a couple of upgrades to my setup.

Bluetooth connectivity issues became an annoyance, due to communication drops during the ride, so I bought an ANT+ receiver for $15. For good measure, I used a USB extension cable that I had lying around to get the receiver closer to my ANT+ devices — cadence, speed, and heart-rate sensors. Oh, I forgot that I picked up an ANT+ heart-rate strap with the ANT+ receiver, since the straps I had were old and didn’t support ANT+ or Bluetooth. Heart rate info isn’t necessary for the game, but it gives me more feedback on how my body is reacting to the ride. ANT+ seems to pair faster and work more reliably than Bluetooth and the low-cost receiver made the switching cost quite low.

Zwift added a new feature that lets users set up their own events, which they call meetups, and they work like the Zwift-scheduled events, but you get to manage the invite list. Since this is a new feature, they are limiting us to inviting our followers, so I set up a meet-up for RCC members and we did our first ride last Saturday. Six of us rode together through the NYC landscape. We had a rough start, trying to find each other in the sea of other riders, but once we got together we had fun, so I scheduled another meetup for the same time next Saturday. We are using the Discord app/service to talk to each other during the ride, so we don’t have to type and ride at the same time.

A couple of weeks ago, Zwift announced that they’ve secured $120 million in funding, so I expect that the game is going to continue to get better and grow in popularity. I’ve seen over 8,200 other riders in the game, so let’s hope they keep adding courses and start allowing us to pick which one we want to ride.

Before we get into the clothing specifics, here are a few things you should consider when trying on clothing.

• Cycling clothing should fit tightly to keep it from flapping in the wind as you ride, since that can be annoying and cause chafing.

• Remember that you don't ride a bike standing up, so bend over in the fitting room, like you would on your bike.

• Cycling kit is made from technical fabrics that improve their performance and protection from the elements. Those features can cost more, and they are usually worth it.

• Keep your underwear on when trying on shorts.

Simple Summer Ride

Let's start with the simple summer ride, when the temperatures are above 60° F (15° C). Must haves: a short-sleeved summer jersey and pair of shorts with a good chamois. Nice to haves: helmet, undershirt, cycling shoes, socks, gloves, and safety or sun glasses. Optional: sun sleeves, vest or rain jacket, and a head band.

Must Have

A jersey, with two or three pockets on the back, is essential for carrying essentials with you on your ride; things like food, money, and maybe a spare tube and CO2 inflator. The shorts must have a good chamois, because that's what keeps your bottom side from getting too intimate with your bike's saddle. A good chamois, like the Garneau 4Motion that's in our 2018 club kit, is dense where it needs to be and thin and pliable everywhere else. Men usually prefer bib-shorts, because the shoulder straps help them stay up. Women's wider hips help keep shorts from falling down and they make it easier to take a mid-ride nature break.

Nice to Have

A helmet is a good idea, no matter what speed you travel, because your brain is worth protecting. Spend a little more on a helmet for a better fit, which is essential for your protection. All helmets must meet the same minimum safety standards. An undershirt or a sports bra will keep the wind on your jersey from chafing your nipples and they provide additional protection from the sun's UV rays. Your shoes must fit well and be compatible with your pedals. Cycling shoes are required when riding with clip-less pedals and a stiff sole will reduce foot fatigue and help you transfer power from your legs to your bike.

When it Rains

It's a good to have a tight-fitting, packable vest or rain jacket that you can put in your back pocket when heading out on a ride whenever there's a chance of rain. When the rain falls on your summer ride, you'll want a vest or rain jacket to keep your core temperature stable, not to keep you dry. The club's vests provide good protection and they will fit in your pocket. I also have a jacket that packs into a bag that's smaller than my fist and I carry it on my daily commutes.

Spring and Fall

As the temperature drops below about 60° F (15° C), you'll find that your summer kit won't keep you warm enough, especially when it's windy, cloudy, and/or you're on an easy ride. To ride in cooler temperatures, you'll need to invest in a few add-ons for your summer kit. What you add will depend on the weather and your body's ability to keep itself warm. Must haves: summer kit, plus a vest or jacket and full-fingered gloves. Nice to haves: arm and knee or leg warmers and a hat. Optional: shoe covers.

Must Have

The vest or jacket that you wear in the summer when it rains on your ride is also great for keeping your core warm as the temperature drops; and this should be the first add-on that you utilize. Your hands and feet will probably be the next thing that needs attention, so add full-fingered gloves and thicker wool socks to keep them warm. You may add a larger pair of gloves or mittens over a thin pair of gloves, as the temps and your body requires.

Nice to Have

It doesn't need to get much cooler and you'll want to add arm and leg warmers to your kit. The arm warmers can be pulled up and down as the temperature fluctuates during your ride. Leg or knee warmers are good to add whenever you wear arm warmers, because you need to keep your knees warm to avoid long-term problems. A hat of some sort helps you from losing too much heat from your head. Depending on the temperature during your ride, you may want something like a cycling cap or a beanie that fits under your helmet.

Winter (in Minnesota)

As the temperature drops to near freezing or colder, you'll need to replace your summer kit with a log-sleeved jersey and long pants/tights. Look for kit made with wind-stopper fabrics, because they will keep you much warmer without adding another layer. At these temps, the wind and sun make a bigger difference, and what you add to your kit will depend on the weather and your body's ability to keep itself warm. Must haves: hat, log-sleeved jersey and (bib) pants/tights, undershirt, warm gloves and/or mittens, thick wool socks, shoe covers. Nice to haves: kit made with wind-stopper fabrics. Optional: chemical warmers, balaclava, another layer of gloves and socks, and goggles.

Must Have

Start with a warm hat that fits under your helmet and covers your ears, add an undershirt to keep the wind off your core and over that your long-sleeved jersey. To keep your legs warm, so they can power you down the road, you need a good pair of (bib) tights/pants; and if they don't have a chamois, you can wear summer shorts under them. To keep your extremities warm, you need warm gloves and/or mittens, thick wool socks, shoe covers.

Optional

When the basic winter kit doesn't keep you warm enough, you can add chemical warmers where you need more warmth; typically your hands and feet, but your lower back is a good spot, too. When a hat isn't enough to keep your face and head warm, replace it with a balaclava or add a bandana around your neck. Add another layer or warmer gloves and/or mittens as needed. For extreme cold, add more base layers and goggles.

Conclusion

If you start out with a summer kit and follow the guidelines laid out here you can extend your cycling season while saying warm and without breaking the bank.

Deciding what to wear while cycling in inclement weather is tricky. It can take a lot of trial and error to get it dialed in, but riding in most conditions is A LOT more comfortable once you know how to dress. It’s a horrible feeling when you went through the painstaking process to figure out what to wear last year, but you wrote nothing down so you spend the first few rides of each season miserable.

I’m here to tell you about a system I’ve honed that could help you out. The picture below is me, sitting in the car after a fat bike ride at -10F, where I was actually TOO HOT on the ride.

Spring is Here! Err, Almost.

Spring is almost upon us in Minnesota! We’ve had a few days of good weather and I’ve snuck out for a few rides. Have you? Did you remember what you wore last year at these temperatures?

I’m betting that if you’ve been out, your clothing choices weren’t quite dialed. Have you suffered through a few too-hot or too-cold rides already this season? Here is something I’ve been working on since I was a new cyclist to help me solve my clothing conundrums.

There are a lot of websites out there with rules of thumb for what to wear at different temperatures. However, go on any group ride when it’s a little chilly and you’ll see a HUGE range of layers and warmth. One guy is in shorts, another gal is wearing a softshell jacket and they’re on THE SAME GROUP RIDE.

We are all different from each other — insulated in different places, and have better or worse circulation to our limbs. I have hot hands and slightly hot feet. My core and head also run hot, but my hips and butt are usually frigid. Others, problematically cold hands and a sweaty body. Everyone’s unique.

A local bike shop’s Facebook page posted an example of a clothing guide that was meticulously developed by one of their employees who bike commuted year round. At first the spreadsheet is a little intimidating, so I’ll roll it out in bits. If you want to jump straight to the template I made for this blog post, click the link below and scroll right to the bottom of the page!

Click here to read the rest of the blog post on MelissaBikes.com!

Areo Bars: Extension of the handlebars usually allowing the rider to rest their elbows and benefit from improved aerodynamics. Often found on time-trial bicycles, they are not good for group rides.

Bonk: When a rider completely runs out of energy on a long ride. Riders should always carry extra food or gels to eat during the ride to avoid bonking.

Cadence: The rate a cyclist pedals, measured in revolutions per minute (RPM).

Cleats: A fixture that bolts to the bottom of cycling shoes to attach them to the bike's pedals. Cleats require maintenance and replacement when they are worn to prevent accidents or injury.

Drafting: Riding closely behind, or beside, another rider to make use of their slipstream to reduce wind resistance and effort required to ride.

Echelon: A line of riders seeking maximum drafting in a crosswind, resulting in a diagonal line across the road.

Following a Wheel: To match the pace of riders who are setting the tempo. When riding in a group, a rider will often watch the wheel in front of them to draft and avoid overlapping wheels.

Gap: When the space between two or more riders is large enough for drafting to no longer be effective.

Kit: The term 'kit' comes from the British military and it means standard equipment and attire. Thus, bibs and jerseys are cycling 'kit,' although, kit may also include a vest, arm and leg warmers, and socks.

Lead Out: A sprinting technique where a rider will accelerate to maximum speed with one or more teammates drafting behind. The lead out rider will pull off before the finish line, when she or he is exhausted, and other lead-out riders or a sprinter will continue on to the finish line.

Off the Back: Falling of the pace of the other riders in your group and getting dropped enough to form a gap.

Overlapping Wheels: When the leading edge of a rider's front wheel is ahead of the trailing edge of the rear wheel of the rider they are following. Overlap can cause the trailing rider to crash, because they can only turn only in one direction (away from the wheel of the rider ahead).

Pace Line: A group of riders riding at high speed by drafting one another. Riders will take turns at the front to break the wind, then rotate to the back of the line to rest in the draft. Larger group rides will often form double pace lines with two columns of riders.

Pedaling Squares: This happens when a rider is fatigued and is unable to maintain an efficient pedaling form that is strong and smooth.

Peloton: A group of riders. In a road race, this is the main group, and may also be called the field, bunch, or pack. Riders in a group save energy by riding close to to each other.

Pull: To lead a pace line or echelon. The lead rider does more work and sets the pace for the group.

Rollers: A type of hills, which we have in the Midwest, that repeatedly go up and down at a moderate gradient. Also, a type of trainer composed of rolling cylinders under the rear wheel linked to a single rolling cylinder under the front wheel which allow the rider to practice balance while training indoors.

Saddle: On bicycle, like a horse, this is the part that you sit on. The saddle is one of three touch points with your bike, so find one that's comfortable for you. It may also be called a seat.

Tempo: Riding at steady pace. A hard tempo can be used to discourage riders from going to the front and a slow tempo can be used to block riders or to allow riders who've been dropped to re-join the group.

Tempo Pace: Sometimes referred to as "riding tempo," a level of exertion just below the rider's anaerobic threshold. This is the highest level of exertion that a given rider can sustain.

Trainer: A device that allows a bicycle to be ridden while stationary, so that they can warm up before a race or so that a rider can maintain fitness during a Minnesota winter, for example.

You can find many other cycling terms on Wikipedia.

One of my most memorable rides this year was with Brian Guitar. We did a 40 miler at an average speed of 18 mph. To sit along side of a riding partner and talk about a little of everything and also enjoying the scenery for a change instead of the wheel in front of you can bring rewards both to the fast rider, and the casual rider. Even the Pro's will fit a LSD ride into their training schedule every week.

Inspect them often, and if you see something that looks like it might be a shard of glass, dig it out. An awl works great. Another thing you can do so your ride doesn't leave you stranded for 10-15 minutes is, always wipe off your tires with your hand when going over, or even close to glass in the road. It takes 5 whole seconds, and all your riding buddies will be happy you did. Wiping the tires off with your fingers takes a little practice, especially the rear. Be careful that your hand doesn't get caught between your tire, and the seat tube. Once you have practiced this a few times, you will be doing it like the Pros.

Believe me once you have one you too will wonder why you didn't make this purchase long ago. Park Tool I believe has two or three different models. I suggest getting one that clamps onto your seat post rather than the top tube. The season is that now that a lot of bikes that are titanium and carbon fiber, you could damage your machine easily buy clamping on to these materials. If you do use one of these, be careful and use some wax paper between the clamp and the tube. One of these stands with your bike clamped on it, can be rotated 360 degrees, and locked in any position. If you go to ParkTool.com you can view the different ones. Does it seem like every time I give you a tip it involves $$$$$$?